Just a tidbit. This may not apply on a short move, but definitely applies to a cross
country move, and everything in between. Whenever someone is considering a move, near or
far, that involves a big screen, large or small, I always recommend they go down to U-Haul
and buy half a dozen unbuilt cardboard boxes, and DON'T build them.
Instead, lay them down where the wheels or flat bottom of your TV or projector are
going to go -- 2 sets, one for each side, if it is an extremely long RPTV, like a 73"
-- and put the unit on top of them, as it goes into the moving truck.
Then tie it down very carefully -- as you have just raised the center of gravity -- and
the 12 layers of corrugated cardboard per corner will absorb the road shocks. Also pad the
large contact areas at the sides of the truck -- hopefully you're putting it in a corner.
Just padding that area should do it there.
Be extra careful of the screen, of course, keep padding away from the screen's center,
let it be touching at edges only. Facing the the TV up against the side of the truck
should present the screen face with a safe parallel surface and protect it from something
falling against it during a frisky cornering on the part of the driver.
Keep in mind if it is a Sony, or some other brand that has very little fortification at
the plastic slanted/curved outside upper rear surface that encases the mirror, that the
mirror is parallelled up against that surface, and anything that falls and hits that
surface will take out the mirror also, never even leaving any evidence that anything
untoward has happened. That is, until you turn on the unit and find a very unusual
picture, if you still have one at all. The Sony 41" table model T15 is very
susceptible to this, I've now seen 2 of them need new mirrors after a move.
Feel free to also add moving blankets over the cardboard, but keep in mind that carpets
and blankets bunch up and compress, whereas corrugated cardboard does not. NOT
mechanically transferring the road shocks is the goal here.
In tieing off your cabinetry up above, for center of gravity reasons, be sure and pad
the contact points well, so they don't rub into the corner's finish. Again, corrugated
cardboard on the OUTSIDE of the padding, at the rope, helps keep the physical pressure
spread out rather than centered.
It might also be a good idea to glue up your focus block before the move, like Sony and
Runco do before their units leave the factory. DON'T USE SUPERGLUE,
or anything else that would be highly penetrative. Just use a light duty, thick
glue, like caulking or a light strip of Elmer's. Apply glue to ONE EDGE ONLY, of each
control -- after all, you DON'T want to make them unmovable ever again, just unmovable
temporarily, for the move, and until and unless they need to be altered again.
This will immobilize all electrostatic focus controls, and your grayscale's screen
controls, if they are located in a focus block. Some Mit table model TS units only have 3
controls present on the focus block. Older Mits's have both sets of controls located
elsewhere, some on the convergence board, some on the CRT ECB, with no focus block at all.
I think that this will keep your convergence, mechanical focus, and the settings on
your focus block the best they can be under those circumstances, unless someone out there
has thought of something even better.
It is especially important if you've just had your unit finely and professionally
calibrated, to the tune of several hundred dollars.