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Tips from Mr Bob:
"The 9 point convergence is the worst, and causes hourglass-shaped convergence
errors that cannot be remedied via the 64 point. When ready to do a 64 point, you have to
either straighten out any discrepancies caused by the 9 point, or find the 6 settings in
the designer mode--the STC's, I believe--and recenter them. I believe default setting is
80 on each.
Whatever you do, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES
order up VPOS and hit Volume Up twice. If you do, kiss your S-video inputs bye-bye.
If you need to raise your picture up a little, do so ONLY
from being in Designer mode, NOT in Service
"If you turn your Contrast down during the convergence, your power supply won't be
as stressed, and won't "tow" your red and green away from each other as much on
strong passages, such as the daylight lake scenes in "On Golden Pond".
These scenes will make the reds and greens REALLY separate on an old Mit whose voltage
regulation is not the best.
This way, you may not have to redo the convergence as soon as a REAL picture appears.
And this way, you may not even need shades..." (This was in reference to the
suggestion of using shades/glasses to combat the glare of the grid pattern.)
"This is also one reason I never use grid generators anymore, and instead use
actual DVD pictures of the grids. After using a generator, more often than not, the
Contrast was so different from the generator to the video material, that I had to make
numerous changes to the convergence once the video material was up there."