Rebuilding the Color Temperature
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Tip from Michael TLV
Here's a blurb Michael TLV wrote up a while back about the sequence to take to rebuild
the colour temperature palette on the Toshiba sets. He says "For now, this is a
Toshiba specific item since no other set on the market has this flexibility ... in a
"One Small Brick for mankind. Rebuilding my grayscale from the ground up."
On this evening, when I found some time to fine tune the "lens striping"
method, I also ended up doing a bit more. Much more.
I decided to reconstruct the entire colour temperature settings for the Toshiba set to
optimize it to all uses and input sources. Colour temperature settings that I tackled this
- DVD Component Interlaced (Lightly touched on)
- DVD Component Progressive
The goal was to preset all my colour temperature settings to known values. For
instance, I wanted the Cool setting to be 8500K, the Medium setting to be 7500K and of
course the warm setting to be 6500K. The thought of the Cool setting being out there
"somewhere" in blue land did not appeal to me.
So as I started, I first wrote down all my designer mode settings of relevance. I then
proceeded to zero out all the setting specific offset items, namely the CO's, the EO's,
the 2O's, the DO's, and the WD's. As I would find out eventually, I had to make a few
interesting compromises along the way.
The reconstruction of the grayscale has to be done in a certain order because some
offsets affect everything while others do not. The order I took was the same as the
listing up top. You have to do Cool first. Period. So I selected the Cool setting from the
preference menu and began the process. Adjusting the main R/G/B Cuts and R/B Drv gets me
to my desired cool setting. What's somewhat odd here is that the initial building of the
Cool/Medium/Warm settings was all done based on the S-video input and from the IRE windows
on the A Video Standard Laserdisc. I've said once before that test patterns via DVD
S-video never seemed to look quite right when applied to normal viewing material like
DSS/Cable/DISH/Video Tape. For what ever reason, the Laserdisc version of the same
patterns yielded better results so I stuck with that.
The Cool/Medium/Warm were all set up based on Laserdisc test frames.
Up next was the DVD component 480 progressive input signal. The problem with fine
tuning this signal specific grayscale was that the WD parameters did not have any Driver
offsets. There were only Cut offsets so it limited what could be done to the grayscale.
(As in I could only do half of it to any degree of accuracy.) And here comes the first
work around. With the 480P signal, I am in need of Driver controls to adjust the bright
end of the grayscale, but I don't have any in the WD section so where to find them.
Available R/B driver controls are available in the warm setting's EO's and they affect the
480P signal. So these are my driver controls and it results in making the Warm mode on the
TV input specific. It is geared to 480P signals.
This screws my original warm mode setting based on Laserdisc test patterns. So now the
second work around. I re-adjust the medium temperature setting which gives me all the five
cut/driver controls I need. The Medium setting is now 6500K, but it is optimized for
Laserdisc and regular non-DVD TV viewing. I'm down to one usable nonstandard colour temp
with the Cool setting at 8500K. Medium = LV/DSS/Tape and Warm = DVD 480P
But in the "not thinking far enough ahead department," I am left with one set
of free parameters that contain all the cuts and drivers that I need to build one more
input specific setting. I can build the Cool setting into the DVD component interlaced
setting at 6500K. Why I would do this is beyond me at the moment. But if I choose to go
this route, I will have to rebuild both the medium and the warm settings.
Things to remember. When you are rebuilding your colour temperature settings to match
components and input sources, work on the Cool setting first and get it over and done
with. You are then free to customize either the Warm or the Medium settings to the other
desired input sources.
- Cool first, then
- Warm or
- Medium in either order.
I got the distinct pleasure last weekend to "idiot proof" some of my previous
calibration work at one of the local home theater shops. I had worked on their Toshiba
TW65X81 previously, setting the warm to properly track D6500. But the ever present danger
continued to crop its ugly head
and then I got calls saying that the colour palette
was messed up.
One has to constantly remind the sales staff that the TV should be in the warm mode.
This television is properly calibrated only in the warm mode!! The Cool and Medium modes
are not correct
so stop leaving the TV in those modes and telling me the colours
are screwed up. Grrr. ;)
So in I came to make all the colour temperature settings the same. Cool = Medium = Warm
= 6500K. It's a big experiment of course and it will most likely mess with
whom ever eventually buys the floor model. They will definitely think the TV is broken
and it would be all my fault too.
One additional task on this particular set too
One of the colour settings needed
to be optimized for DBS satellite, in this case, Starchoice. Seems optimizing for DVD did
not sit well with that material. Everything had a green tinge. The DVD test material could
not be used effectively here, so I deferred to the Laserdisc test patterns. It's all fine
and dandy to set it up right, but you have to educate along the way. Oh so many to educate
My relationship with these store fronts has been an on going experiment for myself.
While the work speaks for itself, it's the "idiot proofing" that I have to put
more effort into and be more conscious of. Without the proper safeguards in place, one
moment the image could be the best on the floor and the next, it could be the worse on the
I am reminded of one RPTV set I calibrated a while back at the local mass retailer.
Sitting in a sea of 40 RPTV's and Directview television sets that were so much whiter than
white; blue beyond compare
one lonely set that looked too green. Why? Because all
the blue sets affect the people's colour perception making the correct set the only
"wrong" set. Augh!! Bad call, Ripley, bad call. These people are dead Burke!!
Now you know what I am talking about when I say I have to rebuild the colour
temperature settings on a particular set."