Tip from Mark Brown: "Here is
a summary of what I did to remove my HS10's Glare Screen...
The procedure took me 2hrs to complete, lots of screws, I took my time... I'm also
fairly comfortable with taking things apart and putting them back together again! If
you're not, make a call to your local ISF tech and beg him to do this while calibrating
One or two procedures could benefit from having a 2nd set of hands due to the bulky
size of the rear and front cabinets.
Ratchet or Socket / Screwdriver to hold the socket that fits all of these screw bolts.
The provided philips screws don't have much of a bite to them better to use the
surrounding bolt connector (and much faster).
Magnetized philips head screwdriver. Some of the holes on the rear cabinet are ressesed
which makes it very hard to get the screws back in. With a magnetized screwdriver you can
easily put these back into their holes. If you have a decent sized magnet you can turn any
screwdriver into a magnetized one by quickly dragging the screwdriver across the magnet,
neat trick eh?
If you will be removing the plastic screen vs. shuffling it to the back of the stack you
will need weatherstripping of some sort to replace the 1/8" thickness of the
Clean Towel or T-Shirt to cover the lenses.
Make sure you have plenty of room to work, you will have to lay down the front panel to
work on it. Turn it off / unplug the set.
Remove the fibre board at the rear of the screen, note that it slides up over the power
Remove all of the screws off the rear panel note the extra screws at the very bottom, 8
Once all of the screws are removed it will come out easily but is very bulky and has a
valuable mirror, I recommend someone help you remove it and set it out of the way.
Cover the lenses ASAP to protect from mistakes.
Carefully unplug and disconnect the four sensor wires, remove them from their wire
harness making sure to remember which ones which for proper replacement later.
Go back around to the front of the screen and remove the speaker grille, it just pops
Now remove the Control Panel with the four screws and disconnect the, wire at the top of
Go back around to the rear of the screen there are more screws to remove at the bottom,
that are holding the front panel from sliding forward.
Lay a number of blankets down where you will lay down the front panel. The blankets will
protect the screens and give the screens something to lay on to eliminate sag. If you
tighten down the screens while they are sagging they will not be flat when you put them
back up. This is bad!
Get your helper to help you remove / slide the front panel forward and lay it down
on your blankets.
Remove all the screws on the four screen clamps, remove the screen clamps.
Carefully flip the stack of screens over so you can remove the reflective screen, don't
bend them! Also remember the sequence of the screens. Write it down if you've got a bad
memory. The screens are distinctively different so it should not be a problem.
By now you've noticed black tape holding the stack together. You now have to carefully
remove the black tape that is holding the stack of three screens. Since I was removing the
reflective screen entirely I only pulled the tape off enough to be able to remove plastic
screen and then be easily pushed back down without disturbing the other two screens.
If you simply want to shuffle the plastic screen to the back of the stack then do so
now. You may wish to completely remove and replace the tape. I didn't as I was able to
save it by removing it partially and carefully.
Put the stack back onto the monitor, add 1/8" stripping if not putting the
protective screen on the back.
Make sure the screens look flat then screw them back down with the clamps.
Carefully put everything back in reverse order...
Front panel, screw it down, front control panel & wire.
Rear Sensors back on, clamp down the wires in their harness etc.
Rear panel, tricky to put back on, two people recommended...
*** Don't forget to put the screws back on that hold the front panel."